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Lighting
It is important to provide the proper light conditions to grow your plants to their optimal potential. Orchids can be grown on bright windowsills or under artificial lights. Of course, if you are fortunate enough to have a greenhouse or a sunroom, plants can be grown with even greater results.
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The best exposures for growing orchids are east, south and west. They should be grown in full sun light a sheer curtain or window screen is important to diffuse the sun's rays. Note how many hours of sun each window receives as trees and overhangs will cut down on the amount of sun.
Orchid Plant Care
Orchids that have dark green foliage, but do not flower, are usually not getting enough sun. Leaves should actually be a yellow-green color, not dark green. Each new growth produced should be as large as or larger than the previous one. Strong pseudobulbs will produce beautiful flowers and will ensure you that your plants are receiving the proper light.
Orchids thrive outside in the summer. In our area this is from mid May until October. Please be careful when moving your plants outdoors as they will need some protection from the full sun. A shade cloth area or the filtered light provided by a birch or willow tree will prevent them from getting burned by the summer sun. If your orchid has not been receiving the proper amount of sun light, you will need to increase their exposure gradually over the course of a few weeks to prevent burning. Remember, just because a plant gets sunburn, it does not always mean it is the wrong exposure for the orchid, only that it was given too much sun too quickly.
This guide shows what plants will grow well in which exposure; however, plants that require less sun light can be grown in the same window when shaded by more light loving plants.
East Window: Phalaenopsis, Oncidium, Paphiopedilum and Phragmipedium
South Window: Cattleyas, Vandas, Oncidium, Dendrobium and Cymbidiums
West Window: Phalaenopsis, Oncidium, Dendrobium and high light Paphiopedilum
North Window: Jewel Orchids and other low light species
Orchids For Under Lights: Phalaenopsis, Oncidium, Paphiopedilum, Masdevallia, Pleurothallids, Compact and Miniature Cattleyas
Artificial Lighting
If you do not have a window that provides sufficient natural sunlight, consider supplementing with grow lights or completely going to artificial lighting. One advantage of growing under lights is that you are able to grow in any room in your house. Complete light carts are available and come equipped with lighting and humidity trays.
To receive the proper intensity, orchids will need to be within 3-6 inches of regular fluorescent lights. When using high intensity lights carefully follow the manufacturer's instructions regarding the proper distance from your plants to prevent burning the foliage. Most lights will also produce a certain amount of heat so be sure to have good ventilation and air movement.
In order for your orchid plants to flower consistently, you will need to adjust your light timers to replicate natural daylight. We suggest increasing one hour each month from January (11 hrs) until June (16 hrs) then decreasing one hour starting in July (15 hrs) until December (10 hrs).
The basement is an excellent choice for a growing area because it will stay at a uniform temperature and will have sufficient humidity. Heavy duty plastic or reflective aluminum can be used to insulate ceiling joists and curtain off an area. By hanging fluorescent light fixtures over plant tables and adding an oscillating fan for air movement, you will have your very own subterranean greenhouse.
Orchids For Under Lights: Phalaenopsis, Oncidium, Paphiopedilum, Masdevallia, Pleurothallids, Compact and Miniature Cattleyas
Watering
The general rule is to water once a week. However, orchids need to dry out slightly between waterings and then be soaked thoroughly. The old slogan says, "When in doubt do without."
Should you experience shriveled and leathery leaves or pseudobulbs, a close inspection of the roots will be necessary to decipher the problem. Over watering will cause the roots to rot, while symptoms of under watering will be dehydrated roots.
We recommend feeling the weight of the pot before watering, then again after it has been watered thoroughly. This will give you a better idea of whether it needs water or not. We do not suggest the finger test because you can only feel the top inch of the media which will not let you know the rest of the pot's moisture content.
Keep in mind clay pots will dry faster than plastic pots and orchids grown in sphagnum moss will tend to take longer to dry. When grown mounted or in slatted baskets without potting media, plants need to be watered nearly every day. Orchids can be grown in almost anything as long as you adapt your watering accordingly.
Temperature and Humidity
Normal home temperatures are fine for growing most orchids. Temperatures of 70-80 degrees in the daytime and 60-70 degrees at night are ideal. Always keep plants away from hot or cold drafts.
Many orchids, like phalaenopsis, need a drop in temperature for several weeks during the fall to set their flower spikes. This is accomplished by moving them outdoors or opening the window in which they are growing when the outside night temperature is in the mid to upper 50's. Cymbidiums like to grow outside during the summer with plenty of light and fertilizer. They require a 20-30 degree drop in temperature in the late fall to set their flower spikes. So leave them outside until danger of frost.
If you have trouble growing cool or intermediate orchids, consider growing them in your basement under lights. Beware of cooling your orchids using an air conditioner as they remove humidity from the air and may cause the flowers to wilt. A good level of humidity in winter can be attained by running a humidifier or by putting humidity trays under your plants. Feel free to spray your orchids with a mister on any sunny day to increase the humidity level.
Fertilizer
It is always very important to feed your plants, not only while they are growing, but also when they are in bloom. Like all living things, when fed properly, they will grow stronger and produce more flowers.
Our product of choice is Dyna-Gro, but any balanced fertilizer may be used. Brands such as Miracle-Gro and Peters are also known for quality fertilizers and supplements.
We recommend watering the plant prior to applying fertilizer and then following one of the twosets of instructions on the manufacturer's label. One is for feeding (1/4-1/2 tsp/gallon) weekly and one is for intermittent feeding (1-3 tsp/gallon) every 2 to 4 weeks.
If you cannot fertilize as often as you should, then use a timed release fertilizer to supplement regular feedings. Depending on the brand and formula, granules will last from 3-12 months. Top dress your plant with the manufacturer's recommended amount. Sprinkle the feed evenly across the surface of the mix taking care not to get it close to the new growths. Do not use this type of fertilizer with sphagnum moss. Because the moss is constantly moist, it will continuously release nutrients and could burn the roots of your plants.
Repotting
Repotting is the part of orchid growing that hobbyists consider most intimidating. However, with some guidance, even the novice grower will find it to be an easy and rewarding experience. First decide whether you simply want to shift your plant or divide it into several pieces. To shift your orchid, remove the plant from the pot and clean the old mix off the roots. Then choose the proper pot size allowing room for two years of growth. When dividing cattleyas and other orchids with similar growing habits, we recommend leaving 3-5 bulbs per division. Decide what size cutting you want to make. Then use a sterile knife to cut down through the rhizome and the roots staying as close as possible to the older growth. Choose the proper pot size allowing for two years of growth. Next consider what type of container will suit your orchid and watering schedule. Most orchids grow well in plastic pots. However, if you have a tendency to over-water, clay pots may work better for you since they are porous and will dry out faster. Clay pots, because of their extra weight, will also help top-heavy plants to remain upright.
We recommend potting in a fir bark mix. This media was originally developed by our founder George Off in the1960's. Fir bark is still used extensively by many commercial growers in various modified formulations.
Orchids like good drainage, so we suggest using large bark or sytrofoam peanuts in the bottom of the pot. Place the plant with the newest growth farthest from the edge of the pot and fill in with mix. Make sure to get the right level for the potting medium. Be careful not to bury the eyes at the bottom of the bulbs and leave some room for water in the top of the pot.
Note: There is some controversy as to how hard the mix should be packed. We have always tamped the mix in tightly, while others just use their fingers. The main point is to pot firmly, eliminating most of the air pockets.
If you are potting in sphagnum moss, just remove the old medium and choose the proper pot size depending on the amount of roots. Spread the roots over a cone of moss, then wrap some more moss around the root ball and place it into the new pot. Phalaenopsis should be centered in the pot, while orchids that grow like a cattleya need to be placed with the new growth farthest from the edge of the container. Be sure to cover all the roots. Moss should be spongy and should not be packed too tightly.
Staking and Grooming
Good staking and grooming habits are one of the easiest ways to make your collection look its best. By removing a few yellow leaves and trimming scarred or damaged portions, all of orchids will look better. A new single edged razor or sterile scissors will work well for cleaning up your plants.
Orchids will take up less room if they are staked upright. New growths should be staked to allow light into the rhizome area of the plant and will also ensure that the flowers will have good placement when they open.
Pests and Diseases
Bugs create a host of problems and can seriously damage a collection if left untreated. Scales, mealybugs, aphids and mites are the most common orchid pests. You will find that bugs are attracted to certain genera. For instance, mealybugs like phalaenopsis and bifoliate cattleyas, while scale prefers cattleyas and cymbidiums. Aphids are attracted to the buds and flowers of dendrobiums and oncidiums, but they do not discriminate between orchid genera. Spider mites will show up when there is a lack of humidity especially on dendrobiums, oncidiums and cymbidiums.
Always keep a close eye out for bug damage. They like to hide under leaves and sheathing and, if left untreated, they will quickly spread through your collection. By removing old sheathing once it becomes loose, it will be easier to recognize the early signs of an insect problem. Scale depletes chlorophyll leaving yellow spots on the foliage. They also love to feast on the tender eyes at the base of the pseudobulbs. Aphids will leave a sticky residue on the foliage below where they are eating. Spider mites can be identified by the silvery scarring they leave under the leaves. The good news is that most orchid pests are easily exterminated. Home and garden sprays will provide a long list of bugs they will kill. We recommend spraying the plant, then manually cleaning it as much as you can with a Q-tip or toothbrush, followed by another treatment of spray. Follow up treatments after five to seven days may be necessary to fully eliminate the problem.
Schultz, Bayer and Ortho all carry a good line of sprays that are available at any garden center, hardware store or home improvement warehouse. For a less toxic approach, we recommend using denatured alcohol, neem oil or insecticidal soap. Remember to always be extra careful of what you spray, especially on the flowers, and always follow the manufacturer's instructions to prevent plant and flower damage. Slugs and snails chew flowers and buds as well as the tender new roots and growths. Bait is readily available and will do a good job of ridding your collection of these pests. Ants can be a problem, especially when moving your orchids back inside in the fall. Orange Guard, a citric acid product, is a good way to eliminate these pests. However, if they are down in the mix, you will need to drench the pot with an insecticide or repot the plant.
Other orchid problems, like rot and fungus, can be treated by first removing the infected area with a sterile tool, then applying a fungicide spray or powdered cinnamon, which is a good natural fungicide. Improved air circulation can help prevent a recurrence of this problem. Flowers that have botrytis (small dark spots) should be removed to prevent spores from spreading to others blooms.
Any orchid exhibiting signs of a viral infection should be totally segregated as contact with diseased plant fluids will cause the virus to spread and may contaminate other plants. Any questionable plant should be tested and if it tests positive, it should be destroyed as there is no cure for orchid viruses. This is why it is so important to use sterile tools and equipment when handling your plants. Human contact and chewing insects are also vectors for spreading viruses.
We hope these tips will help you to be successful with your orchids. There are many orchid books, magazines, periodicals and internet sites that can help you to become a better grower. We also recommend that you go to the American Orchid Society for individual culture sheets for all types of orchid genera. You will find growing orchids to be an exciting hobby. However, a word of caution, orchids are extremely addicting! Once you purchase your first plant, you will be 'hooked' for the rest of your life!
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Athletic Specialties TSK Track Spike Kit is a must have for every track team. Kit includes 400 1/4" pyramid, 200 1/8" pyramid, 100 3/8" pyramid, and 100 1/2" pyramid spikes. Also included are 400 1/4" needle, 200 3/16" needle, and 100 3/8" needle spikes. Track spike wrench and handy organizer carry case make this kit complete.
The Great Gildersleeve: The First Cold Snap / Appointed Water Commissioner / First Day on the Job Video Clips. Duration : 89.50 Mins.
The Great Gildersleeve (1941--1957), initially written by Leonard Lewis Levinson, was one of broadcast history's earliest spin-off programs. Built around Throckmorton Philharmonic Gildersleeve, a character who had been a staple on the classic radio situation comedy Fibber McGee and Molly, first introduced on Oct. 3, 1939, ep. #216. The Great Gildersleeve enjoyed its greatest success in the 1940s. Actor Harold Peary played the character during its transition from the parent show into the spin-off and later in a quartet of feature films released at the height of the show's popularity. On Fibber McGee and Molly, Peary's Gildersleeve was a pompous windbag who became a consistent McGee nemesis. "You're a haa-aa-aa-aard man, McGee!" became a Gildersleeve catchphrase. The character was given several conflicting first names on Fibber McGee and Molly, and on one episode his middle name was revealed as Philharmonic. Gildy admits as much at the end of "Gildersleeve's Diary" on the Fibber McGee and Molly series (Oct. 22, 1940). Premiering on August 31, 1941, The Great Gildersleeve moved the title character from the McGees' Wistful Vista to Summerfield, where Gildersleeve now oversaw his late brother-in-law's estate and took on the rearing of his orphaned niece and nephew, Marjorie (originally played by Lurene Tuttle and followed by Louise Erickson and Mary Lee Robb) and Leroy Forester (Walter Tetley). The household also included a cook named Birdie. Curiously, while Gildersleeve had ...
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The Call of the Wild Audiobook by Jack London Video Clips. Duration : 212.40 Mins.
Classic Literature VideoBook with synchronized text, interactive transcript, and closed captions in multiple languages. Audio courtesy of Librivox. Read by Tom Crawford. The Call of the Wild free audiobook at Librivox: librivox.org The Call of the Wild free eBook at Project Gutenberg: www.gutenberg.org The Call of the Wild at Wikipedia: en.wikipedia.org View a list of all our videobooks: www.ccprose.com
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If you've ever heard someone say they are a carbohydrate addict, they probably aren't far off the mark. Carbohydrate sensitivity is a relatively new phenomenon, in terms of it being the national epidemic that it is. With the increasing consumption of packaged, refined and sweetened foods over the past decades, there has been a corresponding decrease in whole, unprocessed foods. Eating a diet consisting of heavily refined foods, which includes a high-carbohydrate content, will cause you to gain weight and eventually develop carbohydrate sensitivity.
This carbohydrate-craving trend most likely occurred from decades of misconceptions about diet as well as through misleading advertising and diet fads. Consider this: we are eating over twelve times the amount of sugar our great grandparents were consuming in the early part of the century. That's roughly equivalent to 160 pounds of sugar per person per year. Now, imagine filling up your living room or garage with those 160 of those one pound packages you buy at the grocery store-really get a mental picture of it. Let's say you don't eat as much as others, and cut it in half. It's still a hefty pile, isn't it? You see, most people have no idea that they're eating so much sugar. Much of it is hidden in processed foods as well as their beverages.
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Chalk it up to a lack of relevant health education by our government, or just a lack of impetus on the part of individuals to do their own research, but whatever the cause of this health crisis, the bottom line is this. Sugar is lethal in large doses. It may not kill you the way heroin might in a single overdose, but its chronic strain on the pancreas and the body will trigger diseases that will most certainly destroy you. Before it does that though, eaten out of moderation sugar will first cause you to become overweight.
Carbohydrate Sensitivity Explored - Another National Epidemic
Inside the body, carbohydrates are converted to glucose (sugar). Translated, that means carbohydrates equal sugar, and for those of you who are already overweight, those complex carbohydrates will also be stored as fat. This is called carbohydrate sensitivity. I know-- it's not fair! But here are the facts: your body isn't supposed to eat all the sweet stuff you've put into it, and if you are sensitive to carbs, it means your body has gotten out of whack.
What is Carbohydrate Sensitivity?
Carbohydrate sensitivity is connected to the pancreas and insulin production, but I'll get to that a little later. Here's a number to shake you up. Did you know that up to 40% of a person's carbohydrate intake during a meal can be converted and stored as fat? Multiply that times a few meals a day, and you see the outcome: a bulging waistline. The problem with a high-carbohydrate diet is that it's devastating to your natural metabolic processes.
This means that when you become carbohydrate sensitive, your body can no longer burn fat effectively, and those moderate to low-glycemic and complex carbohydrates get stored as fat. Many people walk around completely unaware that they're metabolically challenged from their carbohydrate intake. I know that I was completely ignorant for years, which was at least partly due to my misconception that I had to be overweight to be carbohydrate sensitive. Wrong. I was just extremely active and things looked all right on the outside. Slowly but surely, I'd reach for the carb every time over the protein.
I was carbohydrate addicted. The beginning of my real education on the subject and my change in diet was when I learned about insulin in the body and a low-glycemic approach to eating.
Insulin Loves Glucose
Before you start yawning and think, oh boy, now it's getting technical and here's where I sign off, please don't! Learning about the glucose-insulin response just might change your life.
Your hormone insulin really loves glucose. Inside your body, glucose is a byproduct of carbohydrate breakdown. When you eat carbohydrates, your body breaks it down into a form of sugar called glucose. Now I'll keep it simple here for the layman.
Insulin is like an escort. It escorts the sugar into your muscle cells, where it's then used to produce energy. We need energy, so we can thank both insulin and glucose for their terrific partnership-that is, when they have a normal relationship.
Now, complex carbohydrates make the insulin release more slowly from the pancreas, which is what you want. You want a slow courtship of insulin and glucose. Let's say you eat simple sugars or highly processed foods containing sugar. Those carbohydrates break down very fast into glucose. What happens then is that insulin levels rise rapidly in order to escort more glucose into the tissues and your bloodstream is quickly bombarded with excess insulin. If you didn't understand how it works before this, can you see how that this kind of chronic situation in the body will absolutely lead to diabetes? Remember, diabetes spares no one when it comes to diet and lifestyle induced diabetes.
Your body can normally handle occasional overloads of simple carbohydrates and store them as extra glucose, rather than fat. But many people have abused their systems for so long-through simply eating too many refined carbohydrates or living with other problematic factors such as chronic stress-that their bodies start to work against nature. Essentially, their once normal and healthy metabolism begins to malfunction, and their compromised bodies store carbohydrates as fat instead of burning glucose for energy.
Once you've become carbohydrate sensitive it tends to go downhill. Even a balanced meal of chicken or pork, some potatoes or bread, and a nice array of vegetables don't get metabolized correctly. This kind of meal in and of itself shouldn't be fattening. However, you can become so sensitive to the bread and the potatoes in your meal that you will deposit even the carbohydrates and protein as body fat. And if you eat a piece of bread or a small plate of pasta, your body will send your insulin levels soaring, reacting as strongly as if you had eaten a piece of cake.
To add insult to injury, your intake of sugar also raises your cholesterol. Now, you can understand why so many people struggle to lose weight and promote better health, even when they switch to a "healthier" diet.
Other Factors Triggering Carbohydrate Sensitivity
Lack of exercise
Glucose is stored in the muscles, and if you have a low percentage of muscle and a high percentage of fat-where can glucose go? One of the most important things you can do to overcome this sensitivity is to change your body composition by exercising. This will preserve and enhance lean muscle mass which will help lower your body fat and raise your metabolism.
Chronic Stress
Our bodies deal with stress by raising cortisol levels, a hormone secreted from our adrenal glands. This, in turn, triggers the release of glucose from its "storage "depots" and into the bloodstream. Insulin levels also increase so glucose (which you remember is dearly loved by insulin) can be escorted from the blood to those working muscles that need it for energy.
But when stress is constant, high glucose and insulin are also constant. Being under acute stress is the same as if you had eaten a piece of cake--and experiencing chronic anxiety and stress is like eating cake all day long. The result is insulin resistance inside the insulin receptors on the cells-they simply don't recognize insulin anymore. The escort glucose might as well be an imposter now.
To add insult to injury even further, stress spikes insulin levels as if we ate the cake, and then we do eat cake--giving the insulin response system a double whammy.
Serotonin Hormone
Serotonin, one of your brain's central neurotransmitters, is involved in regulating your appetite and hunger. If you have too little serotonin, you will crave carbohydrates and feel depressed. Increasing your serotonin blunts your yen for carbohydrates. Serotonin is also a mood regulator and increases your sense of well-being. Not surprisingly, when this hormone is stimulated you eat less, gain less, and burn more calories.
How Do You Know if You're Carbohydrate Sensitive?
If you're a woman, the odds are you'll become carbohydrate sensitive sooner and more easily than a man will. While men tend to use carbohydrates for energy, women tend to store them as fat. This is especially true as women age. Menopausal women tend to be more prone: they don't have enough estrogen stores to deal with cortisol and its tendency to make the body store fat. It's just female biology.
Factors That Might Indicate Carbohydrate Sensitivity
--You crave carbohydrates
--You are overweight or obese
--You don't exercise very much or at all
--You're a woman and over forty
--You suffer from chronic or bouts of depression and compulsive overeating (serotonin or other neurotransmitter imbalance, possibly)
--You have been over-stressed for some time
--You are hormonally challenged and under a doctor's care
--You react negatively to eating sugar, i.e., you become tired, groggy, and your mental response becomes sluggish
--You reach for carbohydrates over protein most or all of the time
--Your diet doesn't consist mostly of whole foods, especially low to moderate glycemic foods
If you identify with the signs, consider that you might have a problem, but don't despair. I promise you can learn how to stop this heart-breaking cycle and get off the carbohydrate-sugar rollercoaster forever.
Carbohydrate Sensitivity Explored - Another National Epidemic
Maria Calidonna is a weight management coach and writer who lives in Westchester County New York. She is married with five children and currently training for the 2009 Track and Field World Master's Championships in Finland.
You can visit Maria's product website at http://www.marketamerica.com/bodyandmind for her low glycemic Transitions Weight Management Kit and other related health supplements. She also invites you to visit her weight management and health coaching blog at [http://www.mariacalidonna.com]
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Spike Kit in a molded container with a 3-way key wrench Includes 1,500 spikes: (200) 1/8" pyramid, (400) 1/4" pyramid, (100) 3/8" pyramid, (100) 1/2" pyramid, (400) 1/4" needle, (200) 3/16" needle, (100) 3/8" needle
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$207.04(New)
Usually ships in 4-5 business days
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Adidas Adizero Sonic Spikes Review/Unboxing Video Clips. Duration : 1.62 Mins.
Here are the Adizero Spikes they are absolutely fantastic great, And they always keep you on your toes, I will be using these in the events of 100m , 200m , ...
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Brand: Adams USA
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High quality track Needle Track Spike from Adams USA! Hardened steel spikes available in pyramid or needle point. Buy this Adams Track Spikes before the stock lasts!
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Brand: Stackhouse
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1/8" slim point replacement all weather track spikes for the bottom of all blocks and pedals. Bag includes 100 spikes.
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OnlineSports
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$18.87(New)
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Part 2. Classic Literature VideoBook with synchronized text, interactive transcript, and closed captions in multiple languages. Audio courtesy of Librivox. Read by John Greenman. Playlist for Uncle Tom's Cabin by Harriet Beecher Stowe: www.youtube.com Uncle Tom's Cabin free audiobook at Librivox: librivox.org Uncle Tom's Cabin free eBook at Project Gutenberg: www.gutenberg.org Uncle Tom's Cabin at Wikipedia: goo.gl View a list of all our videobooks: www.ccprose.com
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Brand: Stackhouse
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3/8" slim point replacement all weather track spikes for the bottom of all blocks and pedals. Bag includes 100 spikes.
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Brand:
Stackhouse
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OnlineSports
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Brand: Stackhouse
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Stackhouse Blank Point Track Spikes Detail
The Stackhouse Blank Point Track Spikes come in a one size and have a dull, blank point. The Blank Point Track Spikes screw easily into track shoes and feature a long lasting steel construction.
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Wynn Sales & Service
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$15.00(New)
Usually ships in 1-2 business days
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Brand: Blazer
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BIGFLYSPORTS
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Steelex Hex Spike 1/8" long, bag of 100.Use item # TSHSW - Steelex Hex Spike Wrench or TRW - Ratchet Spike Wrench or similar 1/4" wrench for these spikes, a regular spike wrench will not work on these.
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